A: It can be determined based on your past experience and/or on the assessed result form a creditable sensory panel.
A: PhabrOmeter measures the mechanical properties involved, it is the reference fabric selected that takes care of human subjectivities.
A: You have asked a critical question in fabric hand evaluation (or evaluation of any consumer products relating to human sensory).
Here gives you an example. Say you have develop several kinds of drinks and you would like to do a consumer group study for initial response. The only logical or sensible way to conduct such a survey is to ask the consumers to rank the drinks in terms of 'good tasting'. In most cases, you anticipate a variation in the ranks by different consumers - similar to the case using 'Hand value'.
However, if instead you ask them to rank the drinks based on the degree of 'sweetness', 1 being the most sweet and 10 being the least, then most likely you would see less variation in the ranks - a case similar to 'Softness'.
So we hope that you would see the differences; one is evaluation of overall preference and other deals with individual 'attribute'. But here are the differences and what the PhabrOmeter™ can help.
* If from the overall preference ranking, you find there is one or two being constantly ranked as the best or worst. Then you can use this fabric as your REFERENCE to calculate the hand values of other fabrics relative to this REFERENCE. Then you can rank your fabrics with no variation at all based on the Relative Hand Value.
* Similarly, the Softness values of the fabrics automatically give you the rank in fabric soft feeling.
A: Flexibility, the ease of bending a piece of material, is in part a function of thickness and
geometric shape. Usually it includes the implication that the material will not break when bent repeatedly. Any material that is easily bent may be described as flexible, limp, or pliable; stiff and rigid are antonyms. The preferred ASTM term for high flexibility is pliable; the preferred term for low flexibility is stiff. It should be noted that many fabrics are neither unusually pliable nor unusually stiff. In general, knitted fabrics are more pliable than woven fabrics and open fabrics are more pliable than tightly constructed fabrics.
A: Compressibility may be judged by squeezing a crumpled piece of fabric in your hand.
The preferred term for high compressibility is soft, and the preferred term for low compressibility is hard. Many people seem to prefer soft fabrics in body-contact garments. Bulky fabrics made from low twist yarns and fine-denier fibers tend to be soft; tightly constructed fabrics made with high twist yarns and coarser fibers are likely to feel hard.
A: Surface friction is a surface's resistance to slipping. It can be thought of as how hard you
have to push your fingertip to move it across a fabric. Rubber surface are fine examples of surfaces having high friction. Oily surfaces usually have very low surface friction. The preferred term for a high level of surface friction is harsh; that for a low level of surface friction is slippery. Fabrics with a nap or pile of fine-denier fibers and 'polished' fabrics often feel slippery. A fine corduroy of combed Pima cotton could easily feel both rough (in contour) and slippery (friction) at the same time.
A: PhabrOmeter and Kawabata have totally different measurement concept so they are not comparable in terms of data value trend. It is our finding that the correspondence of the attribute values and fabric performance depend on the fabric types. We believe that different fabric density types and different structures may have different data value trends.
In our case study B on woven fabric, it is a group of medium twill woven fabrics, for this type of fabrics, a smaller softness value represents a softer fabric; the trend of the stiffness is always opposite the trend of softness. However, for some knit fabric, even if it has the same medium type of density, its value trend maybe opposite with the woven type. This is a much more complex issue we have been working on to sort it out completely. As a common practice, many of our clients use a control fabric or a reference fabric to determine the correspondence between the trend of the attributes and the fabric ranking.
A: The instrument in essence measures the overall resistance when extracting a fabric sample through a nozzle. But since it is impossible to directly connect this resistance to fabric hand – even though the two are highly correlated- we have to find a reference indicating a given hand preference. The measured extraction resistance relative to the reference fabric indicates the difference between the two and is termed the RHV (Relative Hand Values). This is what makes PhabrOmeter™ so unique and smart, for it suits different products, markets and consumers for hand preference in these cases have been proven different. There is no one size fits all, like what KES and FAST have assumed and thus failed. Therefore you need to know, or establish as you have indicated below, your own preference from past experience or other methods.
If we don’t use any reference fabric, as one option on the machine and we call it a “zero” reference, then the RHV value with zero reference is directly the extraction resistance, a reflection of how easy a fabric deforms so as to be extracted out of the nozzle - that is the fabric pliability or drape-ability, except this occurs under force not its own weight. But there is no fundamental difference between the two cases as far as fabric drape-ability evaluation is concerned.
A: If you want to get softness data for each replicate in the sample, you need to treat each replicate in the sample as individual one. So, for example, one of your samples called Ford Elliot and has three samples, you can create 3 repeats and name them as Elliot-1, Elliot-2, Elliot-3, all belonging to a new class called Elliot and sample number set to 1. When you calculate the softness, you can select Elliot class only so that it will filter out other fabrics and you will see the individual softness value for each of these samples tested. If you also want to compare with other fabric samples you interested, you can assign them to the same group and when calculating you just need to select the group name, so that all samples data in the same group will show in the grid.
A: The system doesn't calculate each individual measurement's softness, stiffness, smoothness, etc. If you want to get each individual measurement's data, you can just using single piece for each sample and do the same calculation, then you will get each single sample's softness, stiffness, smoothness, etc. (if you using more than single replicates, the data is calculated based on the Avg. of the number of replicates' raw data). I hope this answers your question.
A: The attachment you sent to me only contains “Area Value” which can’t tell the performance of each of your product. When you are using the same fabric with different treatments, you may use the “Area Value” ranking; however, in order to analyze the performance among different fabrics, the “Area Value” sorting may not work for you. So, only RHV (relative hand value) and its Attributes values work for you always.
A: The horizontal axis represents the time changing during each fabric measurement, range from 0 to 108; its value only represents the sampling point / time, so it has no unit.
Yes, the voltage is the output proportional to the force applied. By default, the Y axis unit is Voltage, When you checked the “Display as Force” on user interface, its Y axis value shows as “Force” and its unit is kg, the X axis stays the same as sampling points/time.
A: Partially related,The area under voltage-time graph is the extraction energy which is one of the outputs from the machine. It should be user's job to find out the relationships for their specific applications.
A: They are just two slightly different ways to measure the fabric wrinkle recovery capacity.
A: Fabric drape is more related to fabric tensile and shearing properties, or conformability, and has little to do with fabric softness - also depending on your definition of softness since it is a sensory attribute? Drape in phabrometer provides a much more convenient way to measure fabric draping capacity.
A: Attributes - defined attributes are stiffness, softness and smoothness
Peak – Its unit can be Voltage or Kg
Peak position – time spent to reach the peak, or number of samples obtained when it reaches the peak, no unit
Slope – Force angular coefficient, kg/points
Area - Fabric force deformation energy with the time rate, kg . points
A: This also depends on how you define "softness" measured by PhabrOmeter.
A: Excellent when the reference fabric is chosen properly.